In March 2023, a friend and I spent eight days in Portugal; this country has since become an absolute favorite to explore. The people were welcoming, the food was excellent, and both the cities and countryside held a unique charm. The language barrier was nearly non-existent, as most Portuguese locals spoke English fluently, which made travel essentially effortless.
The weather was a mix of sunny and overcast days, with just an hour of rain on one of the eight days. It was a great time to visit as the streets were pleasantly uncrowded. If I were to return for a second trip to Portugal, I’d consider trying other seasons to enjoy specific attractions, like the Duoro Valley (best from June to August) or Nazaré’s big waves (best viewed from November to February).
We chose to use Airbnbs over hotels for the convenience of having our own bedrooms and bathrooms. It was budget-friendly, and our hosts always recommended fantastic local restaurants.
Below is our Portugal itinerary. I have included as many links as possible for those who would like to use it as inspiration! I do not receive any compensation for use of the links provided within the 8-day itinerary below.
Our 8-day Portugal Itinerary
Day 1: The Magic of Porto
Our journey began in the enchanting city of Porto. Upon arrival, we checked into our Airbnb and then immediately hopped into a Tuktuk for a whirlwind tour. Our guide led us through colorful streets, revealing hidden gems and panoramic viewpoints. It was the perfect activity following a long 13+ hour flight, as we just got to sit in the back of the vehicle and enjoy a private 2-hour tour introducing us to the city.
Links:
Porto Airbnb: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/34767722source_impression_id=p3_1694320177_yg9Tuc98Gi2TC3Pv
TukTuk Tour: https://www.airbnb.com/experiences/185705
Day 2: Porto Unveiled
Our second day in Porto was busy, but one of the most memorable days. We first visited Livaria Lello (the famous “Harry Potter” bookstore). We purchased upgraded tickets online beforehand to avoid the long lines. The online ticket came with a free book as well, which made for a nice souvenir. The bookstore itself was gorgeous but crowded, and as I have personally never seen Harry Potter, I probably didn’t get to enjoy the “full” experience. However, for those who are fans, this bookstore is apparently a must-see!
We then climbed the nearby Torre dos Clérigos, which offered beautiful views of the city. After that, we crossed the iconic Luis I Bridge and explored Gaia. Lunch right along the river was a delight. We next went to Sandeman Port Wine Cellars for a tour where we learned about the rich history of port wine production. After an informative tour, we sampled a selection of exquisite port wines. It was a fun experience and I recommend visiting!
On the way back we took a gondola ride to the top level of the Luis I Bridge and headed to Mantiegaria for a taste of Portugal’s famous Pastel de Nata. This little custard pastry was one of the highlights of the day (sprinkle some cinnamon on top to enjoy it like the locals!). The day concluded with tapas at The Door, which was an amazing recommendation from our lovely Airbnb hostess, Florinda.
Links:
Livaria Lello: https://www.livrarialello.pt/en/store/ticket-voucher
Sandeman Tour: https://www.sandeman.com/port-wine/visit/cellars-porto/
The Door restaurant: https://thedoor.eatbu.com/?lang=en#map (Make a reservation!)
Day 3: A Day of Exploration Beyond Porto
We enjoyed a little road trip on our third day in Portugal. After picking up our rental car, we began our hour-long drive to Braga to visit the Bom Jesus do Monte. There was a distinctive winding staircase that led all the way up to the cathedral, and the panoramic views from the top were breathtaking. This was one of the most unique religious sites I have ever visited, and for that reason alone I highly recommend a visit!
Next on our itinerary was Guimarães, a city steeped in history and home to the impressive Guimarães Castle. I wish we had more time to explore the medieval city, but after walking around the castle we headed to the picturesque town of Amarante, known for its stunning São Gonçalo Bridge. We explored the town, had some coffee and pastries at a local shop, and took in the serene views along the Tâmega River.
Returning to Porto, we had a reservation at The Yeatman Gastronomic Restaurant, a two-Michelin-star culinary experience that exceeded all expectations. We arrived for their first seating to secure a window seat that offered an unrivaled view of the city (shown in the pictures below). We watched the sun set over the Porto during our 3+ hour dinner that included seventeen-courses. We were even invited to enjoy one of our courses in the kitchen with the chefs and entire kitchen staff. It was an unforgettable dining experience that I’ll remember forever.
Links:
The Yeatman Gastronomic Restaurant: https://www.the-yeatman-hotel.com/en/food/restaurant/
Day 4: Driving to the Algarve
Day four marked the beginning of our five-hour journey to the Algarve, with a stop at Castelo de Leiria on the way. The ancient castle offered captivating views of the surrounding countryside and a stunning “Gothic Arcade” shown in the picture. There was also a nice exhibit in one of the lower levels that we enjoyed. We didn’t spend too long at the castle, but it was a very nice rest-stop for our drive down to the city of Lagos.
Arriving in Lagos, we were welcomed by the gorgeous southern coastline. Our Airbnb was in a great area with beautiful coastline views, about a 10min walk to town. We found a delightful restaurant called Don Gull for dinner that evening which had great food and a variety of fun cocktails! We couldn’t resist trying a Portuguese specialty, Francesinha, for the first time.
Links:
Lagos Airbnb (Wish we knew: one of the two bathrooms is on the porch, not inside): https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/29122431?source_impression_id=p3_1694667179_aMMjNF2QEG3Zb%2B3S
Don Gull Restaurant: https://www.facebook.com/dongull.restaurante/
Day 5: Caves and Coastal Wonders
We started our fifth day in Portugal early with the Taruga Benagil Tour, exploring the stunning caves by boat along the Algarve coast. The tour was over an hour long and the guides made the experience so unique and fun. Our small group of five all gathered into a small speed boat with two guides and we were able to enter many caves. We passed other tour boats during the hour, and many boats were so crowded with people that they could not enter the caves. I highly recommend the Taruga Benagil Tour!
Back in Lagos, we explored the charming downtown. Unfortunately most of the local shops were closed, as it was a Sunday. Still, we got to walk around and enjoy the beautiful Mediterranean architecture enjoy the sunshine. In the evening, we enjoyed tapas at Repolho Gastrobar and Garrafeira. I was so impressed by the food here in Lagos!
Links:
Taruga Benagil Cave Tour (we did the “Traditional Visit” 75 minutes tour): https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g12741809-d7590403-Reviews-Taruga_Benagil_Tours-Benagil_Lagoa_Faro_District_Algarve.html
Repolho Gastrobar and Garrafeira: https://www.facebook.com/Gastrobarlagos/
Day 6: From Lagos to Lisbon
Our journey continued as we drove to Lisbon. We returned our rental car as soon as we arrived, as we had heard that parking is expensive in Lisbon and the streets can be quite stressful to maneuver for foreigners. We were very thankful to have made that decision!
To explore Lisbon’s steep and winding streets, we opted for another Tuktuk tour, which proved once again to be a fantastic way to uncover hidden gems, and gave us a great overview of the city.
As evening fell, we headed to the renowned Time Out Market, where we were spoiled with options of gourmet dishes and pastries representing the best of Portuguese cuisine. It was a little difficult to find seating, but once we did we were able to thoroughly enjoy our meal. The quality of food at a food-court-style venue was very impressive, and I highly recommend checking it out!
Links:
Lisbon Airbnb (fantastic location and would stay again – but bring earplugs!): https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/8761316?source_impression_id=p3_1694667614_BOx8LwNH1h2SbFCo
Airbnb TukTuk Tour: https://www.airbnb.com/experiences/3267603
Day 7: From Quinta de Regaleira to Fado
On our seventh day we opted for an airbnb tour to Sintra. We visited the Quinta de Regaleira, where we admired the intricate architecture and ventured into secret tunnels and underground caves.
In Sintra we had our first taste of Ginjinha, a traditional cherry liqueur that was served in small chocolate shot glasses. We thought the tasting experience was so much fun that we purchased a few small liqueur bottles and small boxes of the chocolate shot glasses as souvenirs, which ended up melting within a couple of hours! So, I’d recommend finding other options for souvenirs.
The tour then took us to the Peninha Sanctuary, where we were treated to absolutely stunning views of the Portuguese countryside. We then continued on to Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of continental Europe. Overall, the tour was so much fun, but we were a little disappointed to learn that it didn’t actually include a stop in Pena Palace (our fault for not reading the full description!).
To cap off the day, we had an unforgettable Fado dinner at O Faia, where we had the chance to enjoy a gourmet dinner while listening to hauntingly beautiful Portuguese music. This dinner show was one of the highlights of my entire trip to Portugal. There was something so grounding and heart-wrenching about the songs, and despite not understanding a word of Portuguese, it was easy to feel the connection to the performers. While Fado dinner performances were offered in Porto as well, we were recommended to wait until visiting Lisbon for the experience, as this is where this music originated. It was well-worth the wait.
Day 8: Farewell, Lisbon
On our last full day in Portugal, we explored the Carmo Convent ruins and the Archaeology Museum, taking a step back into Lisbon’s history. The ruins are a reminder of the devastating earthquake of 1755. Thankfully, much of the beautiful Gothic building constructed over 500 years ago still stands, so we can enjoy and appreciate these cathedral ruins. We also visited the nearby observation deck, which offered breathtaking views of the city.
For lunch we dined at Alma, a two-star Michelin restaurant. It was very nice, but didn’t offer quite the same experience as the Yeatman Gastronomic Restaurant, or O Faia from the night before. Afterwards, I took a ferry across the Tagus river to Cacilhas. I had hoped to visit the iconic Cristo Rei monument, but unfortunately time ran out and it closed before I could head over. Next time I am in Lisbon I will be sure to plan enough time for a visit.
Summary
Portugal is one of my new favorite countries in the world, and for good reason. The people are warm and kind, the food is superb (even better if you eat seafood, which I do not), and the beauty of both the cities and the landscape is absolutely stunning.
I was so happy with the trip and with our itinerary, overall. We ended up spending approximately $3,500 each, including airfare, all meals (including three fine-dining restaurants), all activities, 2bed/2bath Airbnbs, souvenirs, and our rental car/gas/tolls.
A few travel tips to share:
1. Rent a car for trips outside of the cities
- Navigating narrow city roads, especially in the presence of pedestrians, can be challenging. It’s advisable to rent a car only when venturing beyond city limits. Be aware of the many tolls, though! Within the city limits, Ubers were very inexpensive and an easy way to get around if we were too tired to walk. However, when driving long stretches outside of the cities, watch out for the speed traps! We noticed a flash when driving a bit over the limit and received a speeding ticket via email about six months after our trip. Oops! Thankfully it only ended up being about $35.
2. Pack comfortable shoes
- Portugal’s cities are known for their cobblestone streets and hilly terrain. To avoid slips, bring comfortable, slip-resistant shoes, especially during rainy weather.
3. Bring Euros
- Before your trip, consider exchanging currency at your bank. While Portugal is relatively inexpensive, many small cafes only accept cash. I brought around 250 Euros, averaging 30 Euros per day for our 8-day journey. This amount was more than sufficient, as I often used my travel credit card when possible.
4. Fly with a reliable airline
- We flew with United Airlines on the way to Porto and had a great flight. On the way back, we booked an inexpensive flight with Vueling and definitely regretted it. It was slightly delayed, more cramped, everything had to be purchased (including carry-on bags and meals), and everything felt cheaper on board. We ended up not saving that much with all of the add-ons compared to just buying a ticket from a non-budget airline. Live and learn!
5. Chat with a Portuguese local prior to the trip!
- I recently learned of a website called “italki” where you can hire language tutors from the country of choice and have a zoom meeting where they can either teach you some phrases or talk to you about the culture, or give you recommendations for your visit. It has been so much fun, and the prices are very reasonable, usually between $10-20/hour.
- I’ll include a link if anyone is interested! It is a referral link so I will receive a little credit if you sign up. https://www.italki.com/en/i/ref/EeHa6f?hl=en&utm_medium=user_referral&utm_source=copylink_share
A few things that I really wish we had the opportunity to experience:
- A Douro Valley Tour
- We had originally booked it, but it was early in the season and still had higher chances of rain, so we decided to take the full day to explore Porto instead. I’d love to do this in the future in the summer
- Guimarães
- We stopped by to visit the castle and snap a few pictures, but we didn’t have time to explore the medieval city as much as I would have liked. It seemed like a charming town
- Nazare waves
- We googled the swell height of the waves the morning we were leaving Porto to drive down to Lagos. We were hoping to stop by Nazare, but the waves were only a few feet high, so we decided to against it
- Pena Palace
- A very colorful and unique palace in Sintra, and is apparently one of Portugal’s “Seven Wonders.” It’s a very recognizable building and I would have loved to visit
- Cristo Rei
- Such a beautiful monument. Would have been great to see it up close
Obrigado! Enjoy Portugal!